Artistante è uscita dal suo guscio confortevole del mondo virtuale, per approdare finalmente nella vetrina di una boutique. E che vetrina! Da maggio, i miei foulard sono esposti da The Crow Lab, in Corso del Rinascimento a Roma.
Ho vissuto diversi anni a Roma e metà della mia famiglia è romana. Tornare nella capitale con i miei foulard mi dà immensa soddisfazione, soprattutto perché la boutique si trova in un luogo stupendo, a due passi da Piazza Navona e da San Luigi dei Francesi, in pratica nel cuore di una zona che per me custodisce i più bei ricordi della città.
Mi sono detta che questa poteva essere giusta l’occasione per condividere un itinerario speciale, quello che, quando torno a Roma, non posso evitare di ripercorrere ancora, e ancora, ogni volta con lo stesso piacere.
Roma, l’itinerario del cuore
Lungi dall’essere una guida turistica, questo itinerario è una passeggiata per Roma lungo una delle rotte che ho consumato a piedi, nei giorni in cui marinavo la scuola. Sì, marinavo la scuola, spesso e volentieri, e mi godevo le pinacoteche in orari mattutini infrasettimanali, mostre e chiese vuote, e quell’atmosfera dorata e decadente che solo Roma possiede in certe fredde e assolate giornate di inverno.
Questo itinerario si sviluppa da nord a sud in una zona ristretta, abbracciata dall’ansa del Tevere, da via dei Coronari al Ghetto ebraico.
Via dei Coronari
Parto proprio da via dei Coronari, che persino Google Maps definisce “dal sapore centenario”. Il merito è soprattutto dei sanpietrini e delle botteghe di antiquariato. Sotto natale, diventa un salottino, con tanto di tappeti rossi a terra.
Chiostro del Bramante
Scendendo in direzione di Piazza Navona, approfitto per affacciarmi ad ammirare il Chiostro del Bramante che è tre cose meravigliose in una: uno spazio architettonico suggestivo, uno spazio espositivo di arte contemporanea davvero ben sfruttato per esposizioni ed eventi, e una finestra dalla quale godere, dalla caffetteria del primo piano, della vista sulle Sibille di Raffaello, ospitate nella contigua Santa Maria della Pace. Cosa desiderare di più?
Piazza Navona
Due passi, ed eccomi a Piazza Navona. Spazi aperti, il gorgoglio delle fontane monumentali, e la facciata del Borromini a dettare le regole di una geometria che ha ridisegnato Roma. Sì, ok, la gloria è andata a Bernini, ma fidatevi: a Roma, bisogna prendersi il tempo di selezionare quelle quattro o cinque tappe fondamentali per rendere omaggio al talento matematico e scenografico di Borromini. Spoiler: questo itinerario ne contiene due.
San Luigi dei Fracesi
Attraverso la strada in direzione di Palazzo Madama. Accanto alla Farmacia del Senato, c’è la boutique The Crow Lab, e mi affaccio alla vetrina, gongolante, per guardare i miei foulard abbinati con qualche nuovo outfit che Maria ha inventato per il negozio. Ma non mi soffermo a lungo: mi infilo nel vicolo proprio di fianco alla farmacia, per trovarmi nella piazzetta di San Luigi dei Francesi. Entro munita di spicci, tanti spicci: l’illuminazione della cappella Contarelli funziona a tempo, alimentata dalle monete dei visitatori. Pago volentieri i miei 2 euro per godermi il San Matteo di Caravaggio. Tutto il resto, scompare.
Pantheon
Faccio un salutino alla fontana dei Libri, facente parte di una collezione di fonti volute negli anni 20 per designare i rioni, e proseguo per il Pantheon, che val la pena per la cupola e il pronao, ma io ci vado per la fontana con l’obelisco, una delle tante fontane con obelischi a Roma, ma l’unica sotto alla quale ho smezzato il bigné al cioccolato di Giolitti con una amica (ciao Valentina, mi manchi).
Campo dei Fiori
Giro dietro al Pantheon e mi affaccio su Largo Argentina e, con un occhio nostalgico al bel teatro Argentina, proseguo in direzione di Campo dei fiori. Giordano Bruno sta dritto sul piedistallo, a rappresentare non solo il suo genio, ma le vite di tutti quelli che, prima o dopo di lui, hanno perso la vita nei roghi dell’inquisizione. Se potessi sentire gli spiriti, sono sicura che in Campo dei Fiori mi assorderebbero. I vicoli intorno e tutta la zona di Campo dei Fiori è forse tra le più caratteristiche di Roma: vi sopravvivono angoli di una genuinità popolare che è raro ritrovare nel centro storico, come la corte nascosta dietro l’Arco degli Acetari.
Palazzo Spada e il Ghetto Ebraico
Poi, quasi senza accorgermene, arrivo a Palazzo Spada. Sorvolo la galleria di arte barocca per arrivare velocemente ad ammirare la Galleria del Borromini, l’artificio artistico e matematico messo in piedi dall’architetto per il Cardinale Bernardino Spada. Ho l’impressione di trovarmi di fronte ad una lunga galleria che immette in un giardino, ma si tratta di un’illusione data dalla tecnica della prospettiva solida accelerata. La galleria, che sembra lunga almeno 40 metri, non ne misura neppure 9. La statua che si scorge sul fondo dà l’impressione di poter essere un uomo a grandezza naturale, ma è alta solo 60 cm. Matematica e scenografia, dicevo, ma l’estetica pulita del colonnato e delle volte mi incanta ancor più dell’ingegno prospettico.
La mia passeggiata nell’ansa del Tevere si è conclusa. Vago ancora un po’, in direzione del Ghetto Ebraico, e forse arriverò alla fontana delle Tartarughe, ma non voglio programmarlo: è bello perdersi per Roma.
I foulard Artistante
si trovano presso:
The Crow Lab
Corso del Rinascimento 54
Nei pressi di Piazza Navona
Roma
Sei passato a vedere?
Fai una foto in negozio dei miei foulard e spediscila a paola@artistante.com per ricevere un codice sconto.
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