Arte, pittura, pattern design, artigianato, moda… da dove cominciare a parlare di Sonia Delaunay?
Sonia Terk, sposata Delaunay, è una tra le personalità del ventesimo secolo che trovo più ispiranti per il gusto di oggi: non solo è stata un’eccelsa pittrice, ma ha saputo dare lo statuto di arte a ciò che un tempo era visto come semplice artigianato; non solo ha prodotto decine di dipinti, ma ha realizzato anche innovativi abiti e creazioni per la casa, sempre rimanendo fedele alla propria vocazione artistica. Per lei il colore non era semplicemente qualcosa da ammirare sulla parete di un museo, ma una vibrazione costante dentro la quale avvolgersi e vivere. Viveva nei colori infatti, Sonia: in essi vedeva racchiusi non soltanto stimoli visivi ma anche sonori e tattili. Per lei, il colore era il veicolo per recuperare le sensazioni e i suoni delle molte parti d’Europa dove si è trovata a vivere.
Il viaggio di Sonia Delanaunay, a partire dall’Ucraina.
Sonia nasce a Odessa, una grande città dell’attuale Ucraina, nel 1885. Trascorre poi l’infanzia in un piccolo villaggio ma mostra presto un talento artistico fuori del comune; per questo i suoi genitori decidono di darle un’educazione internazionale. Studia così a Pietroburgo, ma a diciott’anni è già in Germania a perfezionarsi nel disegno; poco più che ventenne arriva a Parigi, la capitale artistica dell’epoca, dove si innamora dell’arte di Gaugin e Van Gogh e se ne fa ispirare. Nel 1910 sposa il francese Robert Delaunay, anche lui artista, intraprendendo al suo fianco un cammino non solo d’amore, ma anche di ricerca.
All’inizio del ventesimo secolo, l’arte spesso si accompagna alla scienza. Sia Robert che Sonia amano profondamente i colori e studiano insieme le rifrazioni della luce per individuare tinte sempre più vibranti. I due sposi aderiscono a un movimento artistico chiamato cubismo orfico, contraddistinto da un’attenzione al colore e alla geometria accompagnati però da un’aspirazione dinamica che lo apparenta con il più conosciuto futurismo.
Dalla pittura alla moda
Il viaggio della vita di Sonia non si svolge solo tra i paesi più artisticamente attivi d’Europa, ma anche tra i grandi cambiamenti sociali e i drammi storici del secolo. Durante la prima guerra mondiale, trentenne, vive in Spagna dipingendo ed esponendo senza sosta; ma con la rivoluzione russa del 1917 le sue entrate familiari sono in crisi e lei ha un disperato bisogno di soldi. È così che inizia a cercare un lavoro più redditizio della pittura e approda a quello che fino ad allora sembrava puro artigianato: la creazione di linee d’abbigliamento. Ma quando si è artisti, lo si è qualunque sia il supporto utilizzato, e così i vestiti di Sonia entrano nella storia del design come vere opere d’arte. Il suo atelier di Madrid veste le signore alla moda ma anche le attrici e le danzatrici dei Ballet Russes.
Arte e design femministi
Dopo la prima guerra mondiale la donna smette di essere l’angelo del focolare: il dramma che ha portato milioni di uomini al fronte ha aperto alle loro mogli le porte delle fabbriche, dove hanno indossato per la prima volta i pantaloni e si sono rese conto di essere in grado di supportare da sole l’economia dei loro Paesi. Così le donne europee degli anni ‘20, quelle che Sonia Delaunay veste con passione, desiderano mettersi al centro della scena e trovano negli abiti moderni la via per esprimere le loro aspirazioni. Quando nel ‘21 Sonia torna a Parigi, il mondo del design le è entrato dentro e non vuole più lasciarlo: disegna abiti ma anche tessuti d’arredo e persino automobili.
Sonia è ormai famosa, ma non come meriterebbe. E il motivo è semplice: è una donna. Anche se il femminismo ha alzato la testa dopo la Grande Guerra, i passi da fare sono ancora molti. Così lei lotta per il riconoscimento delle donne artiste, prima messe troppo spesso da parte, e nel 1964 riesce finalmente a ottenere una propria retrospettiva al celeberrimo museo del Louvre, la prima dedicata a una donna. Certo, la mostra non è sua esclusiva, essendo dedicata anche al marito: in ogni caso, i due ottengono pari spazio e dignità.
Le opere di Sonia Delaunay
Sonia Delaunay è ricordata per diversi aspetti, primo tra tutti la capacità di rinnovare l’arte del tessuto e dell’arazzo prendendo spunto dalla pittura. La corrente artistica di cui faceva parte, l’orfismo, si orientava alla ricerca della geometria creando opere di puro colore: ebbene, perché questa novità doveva fermarsi solo alle tele? Trasportando la geometria e la cura delle tinte nei tessuti, l’artista ucraina ha aperto gli occhi dei parigini sulla possibilità di indossare l’arte e di tappezzarne la propria casa. Di Delaunay è rimasto famoso anche l’atelier da cui uscivano abiti “simultanei”: moderni, futuristi, dal taglio semplice e squadrato eppure intrisi di colore, come una continuazione delle sue tele.
Nel suo libro L’influenza della pittura sul mondo, Sonia spiega che ogni colore a noi visibile è in realtà composto da una miriade di altre tinte, che riunite danno luogo a quella che noi osserviamo. Ma se queste tinte fossero scisse attraverso un prisma potrebbero mostrare allo stesso tempo il loro sottile legame e la loro ricca diversità. Ecco perché l’accostamento di tanti colori per lei non era semplice estetica, ma si basava su una ricerca dei fondamenti essenziali della visione.
Sonia Delaunay nella sua lunga vita (ben 95 anni quasi interamente dedicati all’arte) ha avuto modo di dire la sua in tanti modi: disegnando abiti, tessuti e mobili, certo, ma anche coltivando la pittura ed esponendo opere astratte. Ha collaborato inoltre con molti artisti, dall’amico poeta Blaise Cendrars del quale illustrò un libro fino al dadaista Tristan Tzara con cui realizzò costumi e abiti-poesia. La convivenza di pratiche tanto diverse l’ha fatta entrare nei musei, nei teatri e nelle case: “Amo la creazione più della vita” scrisse “e sento di dover esprimere me stessa prima di scomparire”.
Come ammirare la sua arte: mostre e libri
Le opere di Sonia Delaunay sono state esposte in gallerie prestigiose: dal Louvre di Parigi alla Tate Gallery di Londra.
Il Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris le ha dedicato una mostra nel 2015, di cui è possibile ammirare alcuni “spezzoni” in questa pagina dedicata.
Fino a giugno 2022 chi avesse la possibilità di fare un viaggio in Danimarca potrà ammirare un’ampia selezione delle sue opere al Louisiana Museum of Modern Art di Humlebæk. In Italia al momento non sono presenti delle mostre dell’artista, ma nel 2021 per diversi mesi le è stata dedicata un’esposizione a Torino, nella galleria Elena Salamon. Speriamo che le sue opere tornino presto a transitare per il nostro Paese!
Per ultima cosa, vorrei segnalare un bel libro per bambini: Sonia Delaunay – una vita a colori. Si tratta di un volume illustrato, edito da FANTATRAC, adatto ai bambini delle elementari: vi si racconta la personalità dell’artista con l’intento di spronare i piccoli a sperimentare col colore.
Potrebbero interessarti:
Marion Dorn: una pittrice e scultrice di tessuti
Il pattern design e le sue protagoniste: se tra gli anni ‘30 e ‘40 aveste preso la metropolitana di Londra e l’aveste usata per fare la spola tra gli hotel più importanti e lussuosi della City, vi sareste trovati circondati ininterrottamente delle opere di Marion Dorn.
Il design scandinavo e i pattern di Stig Lindberg
Siamo abituati a identificare il design scandinavo con qualcosa di molto essenziale, ma anche capace di guizzi coloratissimi. Ne è un esempio il mondo a colori di Stig Lindberg.
Marianne Straub e la svolta industriale del Pattern Design
Dalla tessitura a mano, a quella industriale: Marianne Straub è letteralmente la donna che ha insegnato alle macchine a tessere.
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